verbum

I’m sitting at Hong Kong airport, connected via the Free WiFi service.

I just had one of the best Chinese meals I’ve ever had at the Sham Shui Po district.

Friends of the family (Michael, Daniel and CK) were kind enough to show me around most of the day, starting with Yum Cha.

We then walked around the Tsim Sha Tsui and Mong Kok areas to shop. Whilst most tourist stick to the Nathan Road area in Tsim Sha Tsui, there are far better deals in Mong Kok and it’s only 5 minute ride on the local train.

Nathan Road is 27 kilometres long and has over 3000 shops.

Whilst shopping around, I priced an unlocked iPhone at HK$9870 which didn’t seem like much of a saving from Australian prices. The HK$ to A$ is about 7.4 at the time I’m writing this. Although, I probably could have bargained that down. Still, knowing that the next software update would likely disable the ‘hack’, I decided against buying it in Hong Kong.

I did stop in the HMV store though and bought some DVDs and CDs. Again, the price was close to those in Australia but they were not yet available in Australia. So, I thought I’d grab them whilst I was there.

After a rest and coffee at Starbucks, we drove to Sham Shui Po and looked for a place to eat. It was about 6:00pm and already one of the restaurants was fully seated. We chose another.

We had 4 dishes - Cow tripe stir fried with shallots, ginger and chili. 1000-year-old-egg with watercress and omelet. Then another kind of tripe and egg - all crispy on the top and soft on the inside. Finally calamari stir fried with rock salt and chili. Washed down with beers and tea at the end.

On the way to the airport, CK stopped at a lookout to take some photos of 2 bridges - the Tsing Ma bridge (second longest bridge in the world) and the Ting Kau bridge. Awesome!

I’ll upload pics once I get back

[ View photos of Hong Kong ]

I stayed up too late last night…

I woke up and blinded myself as I opened a crack the curtains to check the weather… stumbled into the shower.

Time to get up, check out of the hotel and see stuff!

Got into Central Station just before lunch. Had a coffee and went off in search of Anne Frank’s house.

Seeing as I was close anyway, I ducked into the Sex Museum. It was really interesting, a sort of … short history of porn really. Lots of toys, photos, posters from different times.

It wasn’t huge, I saw the lot in about 30 minutes.

Man, those Dutch love a museum!

Then it was off in search of Anne Frank’s house. Unfortunately, the map I had on me didn’t show where it was. So I wandered around for a while and took some photos. Trying to soak in the sights - the old cobblestones, the thin buildings that lean towards you.

The leaning is by design so that the hoist hooks didn’t swing in and damage the buildings when goods and furniture were loaded in and out of the houses. After about half an hour of aimless meandering through the streets of Jordaan, I bought a map.

When I get there, the queue was quite long and the day was a scorcher. Anyway, it was worth it I thought. From an historical perspective, her diary is a scary insight to life as a Jew in a German occupied country.

It makes one realise how much most of us lead such easy lives. Comfort and peace we take for granted.

Then I hopped on Canal Cruise down to the Van Gogh museum, just behind the Rijksmuseum.

I took loads of photos as the cruise boat wound it’s way through Amsterdam. The boat houses with their varying designs but ubiquitous pot plant gardens. The hoisting hooks jutting out from the roofs of the old leaning houses. The low bridges, with their black, wrought iron hand rails .. thin and twisted in an kind of Art Nouveau style.

The rhythmic drone of the cruise boat provided background music to the passing patterns of the brown, mossy brick of the canal walls. The brown, silty water lapping sharply against the bricks contrasting with the softer, thlop against the hull of the boat. Just yesterday I had sat on the edge of one of the canals, watching the rain drops line up along the railings.

The Van Gogh exhibit was awesome. I bought the audio tour thing and listened as the paintings were explained. It was huge. I didn’t have time to see all of it - so I’ll have to go back

It was about 18:00 and I needed to get to the Airport.

I get back in time to have some really delicious pizza - ham, pepperoni, sausage and mushroom. Thick style crust but heated up in the oven so that the bottom is just crispy enough to a little crunchy .. but not hard.

Then it was time to board. Join the huge crowds, more queuing through 2 sets of customs … then back in the Piccadilly line to Leicester Square … up through Chinatown and back to the flat.

What a place. I want to go back as soon as possible … so much cool history and a great relaxed, welcoming vibe.

[ view photos of Amsterdam ]

8:30am

Saturday

I’m in Amsterdam!

I did the morning stuff and caught the shuttle bus to the Airport and set about trying to find the right platform going to Amsterdam Centraal.

When I booked my flight, I had bought an Amsterdam Card which entitled me to some free transport, discounts on museums and a free canal cruise.

Eventually, I found the right platform and boarded the train.

As the landscape scrolled past, I noted how so many of the buildings were blocks - rectangles and squares - no round corners anywhere. No roundabout streets, no cul-de-sacs .. grids.

It reminded me of Lego

Turned out I missed my stop or had got on the wrong train. So I ended up having to go back a few stops.

Amsterdam Centraal was a jammed with throngs of tourists walking in s-shaped patterns as they tried to find their way around.

I found my way down into city and looked for a place to grab a morning coffee and some brunch - I had spent 2  hours on the train.

I had a toasted ham and cheese sandwich.

As I walked along the Rokin Strasse, I noticed one of the attractions on my map - The Amsterdam Dungeon. I thought it would be a laugh, so I joined the queue.

It turned out to be good but predictable.

I then checked out Madame Tussauds wax museum. Took a photo with Kylie Minogue, Sean Connery and DJ Tiesto

Dinner was Pizza and a Heineken .. it was damn good!!

Ofcourse, no trip to Amsterdam would be complete without checking out the Red Light District.

As I walked down the dark narrow alleys, I noticed most of the curtains were closed. Of the ones that were open, I’ll just say .. none failed to impress.

By then, it was time for a nightcap coffee and the train ride back to the Airport. Where, once again, I ended up sitting on the wrong platform.

I had been sitting on 15a - as directed by the ticket collector mind you - when a Spanish lady asked me if this was the one for the Airport. I said it was .. then added with a smile … “At least, I hope it is”. She translated what I’d said to her family or friends who waddled in after her as she sat next to me. We sat.

Then another Spanish gentleman came running up the stares shouting and waiving.

The lady said “Come.” waiving her hand to me, palm down with rapid repetitions ..  in the universal manner where you feel like it’s your mother hurrying you along ..  and we sped walked after him.

We reached the train in time, climbing the stairs to the upper part of the carriage, she glanced back at me … we smiled at each other with that “we made it look” in our eyes… and found our seats.

Back at the hotel now.

Tomorrow the plan is - Van Gogh Museum, Anne Frank’s House and see what time is left… my flight leaves at 20:20.

[ View photos of Amsterdam ]

It’s Friday, I arrive at the hotel (Amsterdam Airport Best Western) and ask if there are any taxis going past.

I had left Leicester Square at 4:30pm to allow time to get to Heathrow by 6:00pm. My flight to Amsterdam was due to leave at 8:25pm. The flight is only 45 minutes but Amsterdam is 1 hour ahead of London.

As it happened, I arrived in plenty of time so I went to the coffee shop with the latest Empire magazine under my arm.

I was hot and thirsty after 45 minutes on a packed train. The upside was there is a stop at each of the terminals at Heathrow. I virtually walked off the train into the check-in queue.

I ordered a large iced coffee, scanning the area for agents … just kidding, I looked around for a spare table.

Now, back home… an iced coffee is typically made with cold milk, ice cream and sometimes topped with whipped cream. Yummy, creamy milky coffee tasting goodness.

What I got was exactly what I asked for. It was a coffee, hot, with loads of ice and some milk. This was served in very large (grapefruit cut in half size) tea cup shaped mug. So, I emptied a bucket of sugar into it and waited for it to cool.

I couldn’t wait any longer, I gave it another quick stir and gulped about 5 mouth-fulls down.

With so long to wait, I watched a couple of triple-j vodcasts then made my way to the boarding area.

That wasn’t as easy as it sounds. I was so early, my flight wasn’t yet up on the screen. So I wandered around the duty free area. Eventually, my flight was up on the screen and I sat down to wait for the plane.

There was a slight delay leaving because other planes had banked up in front of us. Yep, grid lock on the runway.

So, we took off and the crew began their safety instruction routine. I have to say, I don’t think it’s humanly possible to speak English faster than the Dutch.

We landed in Amsterdam, I took some photos of the airport, tried to validate my Amsterdam card then I hopped on the shuttle bus to the Hotel. The hotel was only about 5 minutes away. It was about 10:45pm and I wanted to go out.

The hotel receptionist said there were no taxis but she would be happy to ring one. She said she’d call me in the room as there was going to be about a 20 minute wait before the taxi arrived.

Eddy, the taxi driver was great. A big bloke, deep voice and small earing in his right ear. We started the usual banter .. “first time in Amsterdam? … how long are you staying? … where’s Canberra?”

I asked how long it was until we reached the city part of town. He said about 20 minutes. Then I asked he had change for a 50 euro note.

He laughed and said, “There’s not going to be much!”

I laughed too and he said “Tomorrow, you catch the free shuttle to the airport and the train to Centraal, it will be much cheaper.”

As it turned out, it was 55 euro when we got to town.

I walked around trying not to look like a tourist

After grabbing a coffee, went back to the hotel and collapsed.

:-)

[ View photos of Amsterdam ]

Today’s mission was to visit the London Eye. I ended up going to the Tower of London as well.

I set out at about 11:00am this morning by train. The nearest station to the Soho flat is Leicester Square, then it’s a 4 minute ride to Waterloo station and a 5 minute walk from there to The London Eye.

Basically, the London Eye is a massive ferris wheel. Situated on the South Bank of the river Thames. Opposite the Houses of Parliament.

A breathtaking feat of design and engineering, passengers in the London Eye’s capsules can see up to 40 kilometres in all directions. The height of the London Eye is 135m (equivalent to 64 red telephone boxes piled on top of each other) making it the fourth tallest structure in London after the BT Tower, Tower 42 and One Canada Square in Canary Wharf.

It really is amazing. It’s a landmark you can see from miles away.

I arrived and bought tickets to the London Eye and a river cruise. I was in the queue for about 30 minutes and the “flight” (it’s really a ride but calling it a flight is not far off the mark) took about 30 minutes to complete. It was worth the wait. The movement is quite slow, giving you time to take in the view.

Then I took a London Eye river cruise. So named because the peer is right below the London Eye. It’s a 40 minute circular cruise down the Thames. It’s quite relaxing and the tour guide was great, mixing facts with funny remarks.

For example, when we passed under London Bridge, he said “They say that if you wave at people and they wave back, you’ll get 5 years good luck!”. So we all started waving ofcourse, and people did wave back. His comment was “You are a desperate lot aren’t you.”

The cruise took us past The Houses of Parliament, St. Paul’s Cathedral, The Tower of London, the Tate Modern Art Gallery, Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre and quite a few more sites.

I took about 475 photos today.

After that, I jumped on a bus tour around London. It was amusing getting the ticket because the ticket sellers vie for your business like scalpers. Not very professional but funny. All part of the fun.

I couldn’t resist checking out the Tower of London. So I did a tour of that whilst I was out.

Founded nearly a millennium ago and expanded upon over the centuries since, the Tower of London has protected, housed, imprisoned and been for many the last sight they saw on Earth. It has been the seat of British government and the living quarters of monarchs … the site of renown political intrigue, and the repository of the Crown Jewels … It has housed lions, bears, and (to this day) flightless ravens … not to mention notorious traitors and framed members of court, lords and ministers, clergymen and knights.

There’s a funny anecdote they tell you about the ravens - on the river cruise and on the Tower tour. The story goes that should the ravens ever leave “the Tower”, the monarchy will fall. So, they’re well fed and looked after and … with the typical British sense of fair play .. their wings are clipped.

I took more photos but didn’t have time to join the long queue to see the Crown Jewels. That will have to wait until next time.

The Tower Closes at about 5:00pm and it was that time when I had finished seeing what I wanted to see. I also refrained from seeing the torture chamber. After Arundel Castle, I’d had enough of that sort of thing. Look up the meaning of the phrase “Hanged, drawn and quartered” and you’ll get the gist.

So, I jumped back on the bus - the ticket is valid for 24 hours and you can hop on / off as many times as you like - and saw more of London.

It was about 7:00pm by the time I got back to Waterloo and I was famished.

So, walking along South Bank, I decided to treat myself and had dinner at Ozu Restaurant Japonais. I started with a mixture of Tempura vegetables and prawns, followed by some Salmon and Tuna sashimi. Washed down by Asahi beer and warm Saki. For dessert, I had Caramelised pear with Yuba leaves served with Yuzu sorbet. I tell you, the chef should be made a partner for that dessert alone!

They close at 10:00pm. Which was, interestingly around about the time I finished eating

So, I walked back to Waterloo station, got the train back to Leicester Square and staggered back up to the flat.

[ View photos of the London Eye ]

I’ve always wanted to see a real castle. So today I caught the train to Arundel Castle.

From Victoria station, you’ll need to change trains at Chichester or Bognor Regis.

After a reasonably quick train ride … about an hour from Victoria Station, I arrived at Arundel station. The castle is about a 10 minute walk from the station. There’s a small town around the castle with some really quaint little shops.

As the website says:

“There are nearly 1,000 years of history at this great castle, situated in magnificent grounds overlooking the River Arun in West Sussex and built at the end of the 11th century by Roger de Montgomery, Earl of Arundel. The oldest feature is the motte, an artificial mound, over 100 feet high from the dry moat, and constructed in 1068: followed by the gatehouse in 1070. Under his will, King Henry I (1068-1135) settled the Castle and lands in dower on his second wife, Adeliza of Louvain. Three years after his death she married William d’Albini II, who built the stone shell keep on the motte.  King Henry II (1133-89), who built much of the oldest part of the stone Castle, in 1155 confirmed William d’Albini II as Earl of Arundel, with the Honour and Castle of Arundel.”

It was amazing to think that was walking around a castle!

The huge stone walls, the beautiful gardens. All reminding me how young Australia really is.

Despite the romance associated with castles today, I think it’s worth remembering that they’re basically fortresses. So everything about the architecture is designed to keep the enemy at bay. In those days, the weapons were swords, spears and crossbows. Later on, catapults would be invented to throw a projectile over great distances without the aid of explosives.

One thing that stands out in my mind was seeing a pearl necklace owned by Mary Queen of Scots. Also on display were the rosary beads she had when she was beheaded … after being imprisoned by Elizabeth I for 19 years.

I also read the death sentence notice for Thomas, the fourth Duke of Arundel. He was executed for high treason. His crime, plotting to marry Mary Queen of Scots as his fourth wife.

The castle is full of historical artifacts - art, armour, books. I was awed by the detail in everything - paintings, draperies, even the weapons had ornate inlays.

The castle has magnificently decorated architecture. Walls supported by flat buttresses. The narrow winding stairwells lead to wall walk around the keep which provide stunning views of the surrounding countryside, the coast, the town and the Cathedral.

Corridors decorated with hunting trophies, pole arms as well as beautiful paintings and showcases with jewelry and other art of the time, open out onto massive rooms - dining rooms, the chapel, a huge hall whose roof is amazingly high. Contrasting with the quite narrow staircases and low roofs. Very Gothic. After the castle proper, I also visited the Fitzalan Chapel - which is on the castle grounds. Founded in 1380 by Richard, 4th Earl of Arundel as a collegiate chapel served by secular canons. The major artistic interest are the tombs of the Earls of Arundel and the Dukes of Norfolk.

The castle closes at 5pm. So, to really see all of it, I’d recommend getting there early in the day. Unfortunately, I only had 2 hours there which meant I had to rush the tour. There’s a restaurant there which I would have liked to have tried.

Afterwards, I wandered into the town and had an early dinner at The Tudor Rose. I had a sirloin steak with chips, peas, mushrooms and tomatoes. All served piping hot… as in you can’t actually start eating when it’s arrives at the table. I finished with an Earl Grey tea

Then, it was back on the train to London.

[ View photos of Arundel ]

Sunday, 13 July 2008

My last day in Paris. I check out of the hotel and leave my bags to collect later.

With my bus ticket still valid, I get on the train to Champs Elysees.

When I get up to the street, the roads are blocked off. I snap a few photos and wander around. Marveling at the history, I try to soak in as much as possible. Taking more photos, trying to capture the memories.

My overall impression is one of a place steeped in history. The buildings, the monuments … all so beautiful.

I stop at Fouquet’s for brunch. As usual, I say “Un person” and the waiter knows I’m not French but is polite and friendly.

So I order a BLT with a bottle of Evian and watch the people stroll by. What stands out are the vast array of fashions in clothing.

Behind me are a table of 3 Australians - 2 blokes and 1 women, who seem to have made it to Paris from using their frequent flyer points. It’s kind of comforting hearing the Aussie accent. Whilst they’re dressed very casually, it’s clear they are pretty high up in whatever business they work for. I stop eavesdropping and my attention returns to the locals.

After brunch I stroll down Champs Elysee. The Citroen shop gets my attention. The design looks like it was done by the 123 Klan. I’ve taken photos and will post a link when they’re up.

I bought some souvenirs and then head off to find the red bus to the Eiffel Tower.

On arrival, the queue is massive .. as expected… but I figure I have time so I join and wait.

At the top, it’s literally awesome!… photos coming soon.

By the time I finish, I have to rush back to the hotel and get to Gare du Nord to catch my train.

As luck would have it, the station I want to get off at it closed, so I have to go back.

In the end, I missed my train but was lucky enough to be transferred to the next one - an hour later - at no charge.

Back to London I go.

On the train I listen to Faithless - Sunday 8pm … seemed appropriate

[ View photos ]

Sat, July 12 2008 Whilst at The Louvre, I had lunch at Le Café Marly.

I had a Filet de Boefe Bernaise and a glass of Chablis. The bread, typically French, is very crusty. The roofs of French people’s mouths must be very tough

I’m listening to Marvin Gaye’s “I Want You” album.

The steak is superb … I can honestly say I’ve not had any better. After spending about 3 hours at The Louvre, I hopped back on the bus to Champs Elysee. By now, it was close to 7pm and I was starving. So, it was time to find a place to eat.

I ended up at George V Cafe. The waiter suggested a cocktail to start, which turned out to be a Long Island Iced Tea.

For the main meal, I decided to try Tartare de Boefe. The waiter asked if I knew what it was with a smile. I replied “Yes, it’s raw beef isn’t it?”. I have had the Korean version many times and thought this would be similar. I was wrong

The waiter was friendly. Despite my best French accent, he knew I didn’t speak French and was happy to speak English. He spoke quite well, as you’d expect these days I guess.

There’s a young couple sitting opposite me, they look like they’re teenagers. He looks nervous and isn’t talking. She’s smiling a lot but also not talking. She starts reading a tour guide - or something like that. He’s wearing a black nylong jacket with white slacks. She dressed like someone from the 50’s - calf length white dress, blue and white shirt, pearl necklace, sunglasses in her hair

She initiates conversation. He responds with one-word answers, brow furrowed with some unspoken worry. Dessert arrives, which they share and finally they’re speaking. She pays the bill, carefully counting out a stack of coins with some notes.

The tartare beef is ordinary - the Koreans do it better in my opinion. Noticing how slowly I’m eating, the waiter says “You ‘ave to finish it yeh? If you don’t, you can’t ‘ave dessert” with a smile on his face.

Despite that, I can’t finish it. I blame the lunch and say I’m too full. So he says “A brandy and a coffee will ‘elp”… who am I to argue.

The coffee is expresso (short black). I’ve grown to really appreciate them and no longer order flat whites (café creme). The milk is like condensed milk.

It’s 9:30pm and still daylight … like 5pm back in Australia.

Another young couple about the same age sits opposite me. I wonder at the coincidence.

[ View photos ]

In Paris, Day 2, Saturday 12/7/08

Thinking back to London so far. Weekdays have been at work at Reading Room.

The staff are friendly and there’s a great vibe in the office. Everyone’s busy with work.

Nights have been spent wandering around Soho eating then getting back to the flat. Most days I’ve been working late until around 6:30pm - 7pm. The days go quickly with the amount of work and it’s interesting, so I don’t notice the time.

Turns out I have some things in common with Simon, one of the owners. We both play guitar and like similar kinds of music. On Thursday he showed up with a bag of DVDs for me to watch whilst in the flat. How cool is that?!

After work I’ve been playing some pool with some of the guys - David Burgess, Lorne and Stephen mostly. There’s a pool table at work.

Monday rolled around and started my induction into Reading Room.

Back in Paris. I toured on Le Cars Rouges

I had bought a ticket that allowed me to hop on and off at my leisure. Which was perfect. I was able to take some good photos from the top of the bus. When I wanted, I could hop off and wander around, the buses left every 10 minutes.

I spent the most time at Musee Du Louvre and Tour Eiffel.

to be continued …

[ View photos ]

11 July 2008

We’ll I’ve arrived in Paris!

It’s 10:15pm Paris time. I left London at 4:25pm (London time). It’s only just getting dark now. Like London, the sun sets much later than Canberra.

I booked the train and hotel online using Eurostar. They had a ‘deal’ which bundled the return train and 2 nights accommodation plus a ticket on a tour bus where I can “hop on / hop off” as needed.

At the train station - London St Pancras, I had a coffee and croissant - the waiter was French and I hadn’t even left London yet! Collecting my ticket was easy - there are machines that look like ATMs. I simply inserted my credit card and it spat out the tickets.

After a 2.5 hour train ride from London, I arrived right in the heart of Paris, the station is Paris Nord.

On the train, I watched the countryside go by. It reminded me of The Great Escape .. rolling hills, wide skies .. the occasional village .. there was invariably the steeple of the church that stood out. I took photos out the window as the landscape sped by.

Next to me was, was what I assumed to be a French man - pink Lacoste shirt, reading a newspaper in French. In front of me were 4 young English girls. The had small bottles of some pink alcoholic drink. Their conversation getting louder as time went by and the alcohol took effect.

Over to my right was a young French mother with 3 young, noisy children. They looked like they were aged between 2 and 6. The eldest seemed polite as he struck up a short conversation with the 4 English girls - they were nice to him .. asking him the usual “How old are you? what class are you in at school?”.

I put on my iPod and listened to Weather Report (their classic Heavy Weather album), Dido and Faithless.

The train sped along its way, my ears popping each time we entered a tunnel. I napped for about 15 minutes before waking up and soaking in the scenery speed past.

When I arrived at Paris Nord, the first thing I needed to do was change some money and find the hotel. I went to a currency exchange desk and said “I want to change $100 Australian dollars into French currency… I had forgotten it was all in Euros. The lady proceeded to process my credit card then pulled out $100 Australian dollars! .. So, I had to explain that I wanted Euro, not Australian money. So I think I lost a little during the exchange but she was kind enough to waive the commission.

Then, I had to find the right platform. The train station is huge and everything is in … French

Before I left London, on the the staff at Reading Room was kind enough to give me some bus/train tickets - she said she travels to Paris fairly regularly. How kind is that?!!

I’m staying at Sofitel Paris La Defense.

So, putting on my best French accent - thinking that would make it easier for them to understand me - I proceeded to ask the information desk where I should go to get to La Defense. As it happened I had to change trains along the way.

So far, everyone is surprisingly polite and helpful. I had expected the stereotypical rude arrogance the French are reputed to have.

After a reasonably short train ride, I arrived at La Defense. I found the way out - Sortie - and found myself surrounded modern buildings - post modern in style with glass curtain walls exposing the insides of the buildings. I was like a scene out of a science fiction movie like … like I Robot or Minority Report.

So, I wandered around taking some photos … thinking “I hope the hotel is close. What should I do .. ask someone? catch a taxi?” … then, as a walked further down the Esplanade de La Défense, I noticed the Sofitel was within walking distance! Whew!

So, here I am in the plush hotel room thinking about dinner and realising that I’d forgotten to print my bus tickets whilst in London when I had access to a printer. I called reception and “ofcourse” they have a printer I can use.

Well.. that’s all for now .. more soon

[ View photos ]